Well, only about eight months later here I am with the other technique I like to use to avoid using facings (technique #1 is here, where I also explain what facings are and why I don't like them). This technique allows you to fully line the bodice, but I only recommend it for things that have a zipper in the back (super important! it won't work otherwise) and do not have any gathering along the neckline. For those types of garments, I would use technique #1.
I am scaling this down to a doll size because I don't have enough fabric to make myself another dress. The beneficiary of my weensy garment is Sunny here.
Because this is a doll's dress, there are no darts in the bodice. I am making her a little version of the Coffee Date dress from Burda, so just pretend I've got darts, OK? :) Also, the seam allowances should be 5/8", but mine are smaller because, again, doll's dress. We all square? Great! Let's get sewing.
So, what you want to do is cut all the pieces of your bodice from both your fabric and your lining. You do not need to cut the facings, and I never use interfacing when I use this technique. I'm using muslin as my lining here as I did for my version of the Coffee Date dress. Sew the darts (not pictured because they don't exist) on both the fabric and the lining, and do any other sewing you need for your bodice (I had to add the ruffle to this bodice, for example). Then sew both the fabric and the lining at the shoulder seams.
Press the seams open.
Now, lay those, right sides together and sew around the neckline and arm holes.
I like to pin down my seams so that they don't flap open as the presser foot goes over them.
Now trim your seams down to about 1/4".
Clip your curves.
For the arm holes, I usually clip about 10 times. I've highlighted them in orange so you can see easier. :)
Clip your neck hole too.
The reason you trim your seams and clip your curves is to help the garment lay flat. The bulkiness of 5/8" seams around something as curved as a neckline really show. If you don't clip your curves, the curves will be really restricted and won't lay right, so please don't skip these steps. They make a big difference in the way your piece looks, I promise!
Now, you need to pull the bodice back through the shoulder holes like this:
Now we understitch the seam allowances to the lining (the circled stuff to the white fabric). We do this because it also helps the garment lay flat, and will keep the lining from peeking out over the neckline.
Because of the way this is constructed, you won't be able to understitch all the way around. Just go as far as you can and don't try to force yourself to sew further than you can sew easily. You don't want to sew the bodice together, not that I've ever done that! :)
(Not pictured) Press the seam allowances towards the lining. Stitch, making sure your stitches catch the seam allowances. Sew both arm holes and the neckline.
See how the stitches don't go all the way around the neckline and arm holes?
Press your garment.
Almost done!
Now we just need to sew up the sides. Open up the lining and fabric and pin them together - bodice front to bodice back, and lining front to lining back.
Just like with the shoulder seams, pin down the arm hole seam allowances so that it doesn't flop around when you sew.
Press so both seam allowances face the same way.
Now press the lining under 5/8".
And sew the bodice to the skirt, leaving the lining free.
Clip the seam allowance. (Not pictured) Add your back closure (zipper, buttons, etc.). Then hand sew the lining down. I used my sewing machine because 1) this is a doll's dress and 2) I'm lazy.
Now you're all done!!
I hope you guys use this. I love it myself and find it appropriate for most garments. Let me know if you have any questions!! :)
xoxo,
