So here we are getting ready to sew this mother up. My whole goal with this (and any future) sew along is to make all of you newbies out there feel like I'm right there with you showing you every step of the way. If you have any pointers (more pictures, more drawings, take pictures from the front & back), please shout them out in the comments. I had a total bad experience kicking myself about a tute I read this week because I just didn't understand what the gal meant. She was clear and all, but if she had just taken one more picture it would have saved me ten minutes of thinking I was completely stupid. I do not want you to feel that way because I loves ya!
That being said, I also have to sew in the evening which means I have to use The Dreaded Flash. These pictures are not the quality of The Pioneer Woman so I apologize. I need a 180 degree flash and some photo training sessions with Ashley Ann.
I will use Burda's pattern for the Marie skirt, but I made some changes as well so we'll be going off book from time to time. If you have the Marie pattern instructions, the sewing directions begin on page 4 and we start with the pleats.
Note: Some of my photos are of the lining because my fabric is dark and you can't see the details of what I am doing as well as you can on the white lining. Also I used orange washable marker to make it even clearer. Aren't I awesome? Click on any pic to enlarge.
**Step 1: Interface waistbands**
Following the manufacturer's instructions, press your interfacing to the wrong side of your waistbands.
**Step 2: Pleats**
Burda writes: Lay and stitch the pleats one by one, starting at a pleat at the side. Fold the skirt so that the fold lines of the first pleat meet, right sides facing. Pin the pleat lines onto each other from the top ending at the arrow line.
So here's my the left side of my lining fabric marked with the pleat lines. I tried to find a mix of showing you enough detail while also showing as much of the skirt as possible, so this is a closeup of part of the top. I illustrated the center fold to give you a point of reference.
Now, take the pleat line from the very left and fold it over to the next pleat line and match the angle of that line.
Using that same technique, fold the rest of the pleats. You will end up with four and they will look like this:
I then press them to help them keep their shape when I pin and sew them.
Burda writes: Stitch. Secure seam beginning and end. Then lay the other pleats in the same manner and stitch. Press the fold towards the side seams.
To be completely honest, I kinda don't get what they mean. "Secure seam beginning and end" then stitch the rest of the pleats? WTF? So after I pressed & pinned, I just stitched the pleats down. Do this with both pieces of Piece 1 and the lining if you're using lining.
**Step 3: Stitching the Outer Waistband**
Burda writes: Pin the reinforced waistbands right sides facing onto the upper skirt edge. Stitch. Trim seam allowances and press the waistband flat.
So take your waistband and look at it. You'll notice, if you hold it right side up that it's the shape of a smile - the wider part is on the bottom. Take that bottom and pin it to the skirt top. You may need to stretch a little here and there to get the ends to line up properly. Sew it down using a 5/8" seam allowance.
Also, be sure to lock your stitches. That means you sew to almost the edge, then backstitch, then sew all the way to the edge. Normally, this will make one bigger stitch line, but I made them a little separated so you could see it better.
If you are not using lining, then trim your seam allowance close to your stitching line. If you are using a lining, leave it as is for now. Your skirt will look like this (note: this has not been pressed so it looks a little weird.)
Press the seam allowance towards the top of the skirt like so.
**Step 4: Pockets on right side of skirt -- Skip if you're not using pockets**
EDIT: SKIP NO MATTER WHAT! THESE POCKETS WILL MAKE YOU STABBY AND WILL EQUAL A MONUMENTAL FAIL. TRUST ME, I'M TALKING IN ALL CAPS!!!!
Because the zipper sits on the side seam, you sew the pockets on using two separate techniques. For the right side, the side without your zipper, you sew them on like so:
Pin the pockets to the right side of the fabric.
Sew along the side seam to hold in place. Do this for the skirt front and skirt back.
They will look like this if you look at the front of both pieces.
Sew them following my orange stitch line. Be sure to leave a good enough sized opening for your hand to actually get into your pocket. I've sewn a too small opening many times. ;)
**If you are not using pockets, use these steps for the Right Side Seam**
Burda writes: Place skirt pieces onto top of each other right sides facing, pin the right side seam. Stitch.
Pretend there is no pocket there. Just pin the pieces with the right sides of the fabric, pin, and sew it up. :) If you are using lining, sew all the way up the right side seam as well.
OK, that's it for today! How do you feel? You've got your pleats formed, the waistband attached to your skirt, the right pocket sewn (optional), and the lining pleats formed & lining right side seam sewn (optional). Next we will attach the pocket to the left side, add the zipper, and sew up the left side seam.
xoxo,
